She’s the Goose

From the Oven · Every Season
The old cinnamon cookie with browned butter underneath it — nutty and deep, with crisp edges and a soft center.
The old cinnamon cookie, made with butter that spent seven minutes turning into something else.
The dough
The rolling sugar
Melt the butter in a light-colored saucepan over medium heat, swirling often, until the milk solids are deep golden and smell nutty, 5–7 minutes. Pour into a mixing bowl, scraping in the browned bits, and cool 15–20 minutes.
Whisk the sugar into the cooled brown butter until smooth. Add the eggs, egg yolk, and vanilla; whisk until glossy.
Stir in the flour, cream of tartar, baking soda, and salt until no dry streaks remain. Do not overmix.
Cover and refrigerate at least 45 minutes.
Heat the oven to 350°F and line baking sheets with parchment. Stir the rolling sugar and cinnamon together. Scoop the dough into 1½-tablespoon balls, roll generously in cinnamon sugar, and set two inches apart.
Bake 9–11 minutes, until the edges are set and lightly golden while the centers still look slightly soft.
Rest on the baking sheet 5 minutes, then move to a wire rack.
To freeze: chill the dough first, scoop and roll in cinnamon sugar, freeze on a tray until solid, then bag. Bake from frozen at 350°F for 10–13 minutes, pulling them while the centers still look underdone.